Knitted fabric



Jun'e 16, 1931. w. J. SCHUBERT 1,810,580

KNITTED FABRIC Fi1 ed June 6, 1929 i 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 W/mw' mmzm Je June 16, 1931. w. J. SCHUBERT 1,310,530

KNITTED FABRIC 7 Filed June 6. 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Mrs/wok I scfiufiex/ p. d x/ j Patented June 16, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE WILLIAM J. scnunnanjor BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLV NIA, ASSIGNOR 'ro STANDARD- TRUMI? nnos. MACHINE COMPANY, or WILMINGTON, DE AWARE, A CORPORATION or DELAWARE KNITTED F AIBRIC Application filed June G, 1929. Serial No. 368,828.

This invention relates to a plated knitted fabric and relates specifically to such fabric exhibited multicolored effects.

This application is a continuation. in part of my application Serial Number 261,107, filed March 12, 1928. a

Plated-knitted fabric, formed by feeding simultaneously to the knitting needles two yarns, a backing or body yarn, and a facing or plating yarn, while under different tensions, is well known; the plating yarn normally appearing on the face of the fabric, while the body yarn is concealed. Striped and figured effects have been produced in such fabrics by either of .two methods.

-In one method, the needlesor other instrumentalities are manipulated so that the backing yarn, only, is at predetermined times engaged and knit by the needles while the plating yarn floats on the back of the fabric.

The use of this method is limited and unsatisfactory since, unless the floats are very short, the objectionable floated yarns'must be cut away from the fabric, this being particularly true in the case of circular-knit hosiery.

The second method which is used involves a reversal of the positions of the yarns with the production of what is known as reverse plating, both yarns being knit into the loops of the fabric.

Each of the above methods oflers advantages in the production of desi ns, inasmuch as different effects are produce In plating, where both yarns are knit into the loops, one occupies the surface position and is most rominent. The other yarn is, however, visible so that the face of the fabric has the color of the plating yarn modified or shaded by that of the backing varn. On the other hand, when a yarn is oated, it is very'substantially concealed so that thecolor of the face of the fabric is that of the yarn knit into the loops, substantially unmodified by the color of the floating yarn.

Heretofore, reverse plating has been practiced only for the production of two color effects by manipulation of two yarns or the equivalent of two yarns: that is, the manipulation of three yarns when two-are fed to gether so as to effectively act as one. In cases where two yarns are so fed together as one, they twist about eachother so that where they are brought to the surface a mottled indefinite appearance is produced. There are, however, only two distinguishable areas pro duced, one mottled and the other having substantially the color of-the third yarn.

While the float method has been used to produce three effects from three yarns, by.

reason of the fact that the three yarns have not been made to extend'continuously along successive courses of'the fabric, long floats have been produced necessitating cuttin :of

the floated yarns; Only very simple e cots are, accordingly, practically producible by effects has never been heretofore accomplished either using two or more yarns. Accordingly, triple effects, unless accomplished by yarn changes, have never been obtained except in the unsatisfactory manner outlined in the preceding paragraph, or more complicated manners.

The present invention has, as its broad object, the provision ofa knitted fabric of the plated type in which multiple effects are present by reason of novel arrangements of two, three, or more yarns. More specifically the fabric involves the combined use of reverse plating and floating for the production of the novel effects. I

The invention further includes the definite plating of three ormore yarns'in dif ferent predetermined orders.

Other objects will become apparentfrom the following description of the production of a preferred embodiment of the invention and detailed consideration of the embodiment.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view showing the arrangement of the yarns in the various portions of one fabric within the scope of the invention;

. larigiei Fig. 7 is a perspective view of an element.

of the mechanism;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view showing the sinker actuating cams;

Fig. 9 is a fra entary plan view of a portion of the mac ine illustrating the formation of stitches; and

Fig. 10 is an enlarged view of a modified fabric within the sec of the invention.

In order to make 0 ear the invention, there will be first described in detail one fabric which embodies the characteristics of the invention and which will make clear the numerous variations which will eflect the roduction of intricate designs. This will be followed by a description of one form of mechanism and a process whereby the fabrics embodied within the invention may be produced.

The fabric which is disclosed diagrammatically in Fig. 1 and in enlarged detail in Fig. 2, com rises three interknitted threads, of which al may, as in the disclosed em bodiment, be of different colors, or of which two or all three may be of the samecolor, resulting, as will be clear hereafter, in the production of either a multicolored fabric or a fabric havin areas of different shades or appearances t ough of substantially the same colors.

As shown in the figures, the fabric includes four areas m, n, o and p of different construction and appearance. The fabric which may be produced on any suitable knitting machine, for example. the circular knit ting machine disclosed, includes three yarns a, b, and c all of which extend continuously along successive courses of the fabric; that is, the fabric is of substantially the same weight throughout.

In this fabric, the portion m, which from the manner of production. may be arbitrarily designated as the normal portion, is made up of stitched loops in each of which all three yarns occur in plated relationship, yarn a forming the facing or plating yarn, yarn b the intermediate or middle yarn, and yarn c the backing yarn. The color of yarn a will thus predominate although yarns b and a will to a sllght extent be visible and thus modify the appearance of the fabric.

In the second portion n, all three yarns are knit into the loops but in a different manner, this different manner including a change of order; that is, yarn c is in the facing position, yarn a is in the middle position, and yarn is in the backing position. The color of this portion is consequently predominantly that of am 0, modified by the colors of yarns a an 12. As will be shown, hereafter, a modification of the machine will readily eifectan interchange of yarns a and b to bring arn b to the middle position and yarn a to tile backin position. In such latter case, the color 0 yarn I) would primarily affect that of yarn 0, while in the disclosed case yarn a primarily affects the color of am a.

assing to the third portion 0, it will be seen that the manner of the arrangement of the yarns is changed, this change in manner of arrangement not only including a change in order but also a change of the physical arrangement. In this portion, yarns b and 0, only, are knit into the loops while yarn a floats. As a consequence the color of this portion is that of b modified by that of 0.

The floating yarn a is very substantially concealed and, 1f the fabric is closely knit is,

unless the fabric is stretched, imperceptible from the face.

The fourth portion p is similar to portion 0 exce t that the knitted yarns b and c are reverse so that yarn c a pears on the surface. Here again yarn a is oated so as to be substantiall invisible from the face.

It will be' understood that in laying out a design, the portion where floats are present is to be relatlvely narrow so that the floats are unobjectionable and lie along the courses and closely behind the loops.

The fabric which has been described may be roduced in many different ways which wil be apparent to those skilled in the art. For example, the mechanism described in the application of Harold E. Houseman, Serial No. 261,734, filed March 15, 1928, is designed to produce a fabric of the type described and is particularl adapted to the production of complicated esi ns in such fabric. By way of illustration of a machine adapted to produce this fabric, there are herein described those parts which may be added to an ordinar circular knitting machine in order to mo ify its action for the production of the improved fabric.

The circular knitting machine comprises a usual needle cylinder 2 carrying sets of needles 4 and 4. The sinker dial 6 rotates with this cylinder and serves to support the ordinary sinkers 8 and also the special sinle ers later described, which are used to produce reverse plating.

Of the needles, needles 4 are designed to be moved outwardly from the cylinder so as to fail to engage one of the threads and thus produce floats. In order to provide for this movement of the needles at the proper times, those sinkers, either ordinary or special, which are adjacent to these needles are provided with slots 10 in their lower edges. These slots embrace the inner edges of blocks 12 which are slidable inwardly and outwardly in a groove'14 formed in the upper outside edge of the needle cylinder. These blocks are provided with slots 16 each of which embraces the .shank of aneedle 4. The sinker-shave the usual butts 9. In order to move the sinkers outwardly to displace needles 4 at the proper times, a cam 18, pivoted at 20 to the sinker cap, is provided with an upwardly extendingpin 22 arranged to be engaged by a slot in one arm of a lever 24. ar-

ranged to be rocked by a cam carried by a lever 26, which is connected by a link 28 to a suitable pattern mechanism. -As will be clear from Figs. 4, 8 and 9, movement of cam 18 by the instrumentalities described to the dotted line position of Fig. 8 will result in an outward movement of the sinkers, which will thereby pull blocks 12 outwardly by reason of the engagement of the inner ends ofslots 10 therewith. The needles 4 will thus be moved to a position as indicated in Fig. 9, where they will fail to engage the thread a fed downwardly through guide 30 so as to normally be taken by the needles.

Guides 32 and 34 arranged in the throat of the latch plate serve to feed threads 6' and 0 to the needles in the usual manner. In order to produce proper plating, different tensions are applied-to the yarns, the tension on yarn a which will normally appear upon t-heface of the fabric being greatest, while yarn b has an intermediate tension and yarn c is either tcnsioned very slightly or not at all. It will be noted that guide 30 is positioned so that thread a is fed against the shanks of the needles prior to their approach to the stitching point. I

The instrumentalities so far described provide for the floating of yarn a in the areas 0 so that yarn b is brought to the surface while yarn c enters the middle position.

In order to produce reverse plating so as to effect the production of areas n, special sinkers 36 of the form disclosed in Fig. 3, provided with thin beaks 38 having curved rear edges, are provided. These sinkers have butts 40, while the rear is extended as indicated at 42 so as to normally lie outwardly of the outer ends of the normal sinkers 8. A ca1n'44 pivotallyanolinted on the frame may be operated through a suitable pattern mechanism from the full line position shown in Fig. 8 to the dotted line position. shown therein. If this cam is retained on the full line position, the cam follower'and ends 42 of the sinkers 3.6 will not be engaged thereby, so that the sinkcrs will operate in the usual fashion and serve to produce ordinary plating. On the other hand, it thecain is moved to the dotted line position, it engages the follower end 42, thereby projecting the sinker inwardly to the position shown in Fig. 3, so that the yarns in the hook of the needle,

in being drawn outwardly over the curved outer end of beak 38, are reversed into the dotted line positions shown on the outer shoulder of thesinker. There is thus produced the reverse plated area indicated at n in which yarn 0 takes the, facing position, yarn a. the-intermediate position, and yarn b the backin position. By a change in the positions of t e yarn guides'so that the yarns are fed in diiferent relationship to the needles, there may be produced an area in which yarns a and b are interchanged from-the position shown in area a. That is the yarns will be arranged in the order shown in area p, though all will be knit into the loops. 1

In order to effect the production of portions p, sinkers 46 similar to sinkers 36 and provided with similar butts 48 and ends 50 are provided, these sinkers beingslotted at 10 similarly to sinkers 8, to embrace blocks 12 arranged to act on theadjacent needles 4. In operation, cam 18 is actuated tocause needles 4 to'miss engagement with yarn a, and in the subsequent loop. lormingmovements' of the needles the yarns band c are reversed with the production of the stitches as shown in portion p, sinkers 46 being moved in the same manner as sinkers 36 for such reversai. If the cam 44 is retained in its retracted position, no reversal will occur and portions such as 0 will result.

\Vhile for accuracy of manipulation and to simplify the pattern mechanism it is desirable to use the various different sinkers as described, it will be obvious that the arrangement of the slotted sinker 46 in combination with block 12 as shown in Fig. 5 will, alone, effect the production of stitches of any of the types disclosed, on the adjacent needles. For example, the normal stitches of portion m will be produced it both cams 18 and 44 remaininoperative portions n will be produced if cam 18 is inoperative while cam 44 is rendered operative; portions 0 will be produced it cam 18 is rendered operative and cam 44. remains inoperative; and portions 1) will be produced if both cams are operative. It will be further clear that for fine work involving, for example, a float across one wale only, the block 12 may be so made as to move one needle only and be actuated by a single sinker. Or, each sinker may be pro ,vided with an integral lug arranged to engage one adjacent needle.

F1 gure 1O discloses a modlfied form of fab no showing the production of a design, in which areas m, n, and 0 correspond, respectively, to portions m. n and 0 of Figs. 1 and It w ll be noted that yarn a floats in areas 0 y I. arions ()bYIUUS modifications will be apparent from the above description of the fabric and the method of its manufacture. As stated in the beginning, the threads need notall be of different colors inasmuch as the various arrangements produce portions of different appearances irrespective of differences in color. For example, floated yarns tend to produce an embossed appearance of the overlying looped portions.

While only one yarn has been shown as floated, two yarns or all three may be floated in various areas of the fabric thereby producing differences in texture as well as color or appearance. Furthermore, not only the normal plating yarn but any of the others may be floated.

An interesting modification within the scope of the invention may be obtained by eliminating yarn b and portion 0 from the fabric disclosed whereby substantially the same appearance is produced as is obtained by making yarns b and 0 of the same color. Considering yarns c and a alone, it will be seen that the fabric has a portion a in which both these threads are knit into loops with 0 overlying a, a portion p in which 0 is knit into loops and overlies a which floats behind such loops, and a portion m in which a overlies 0. Accordingly, with but two threads used (or two of three being of the same color), there are produced three varicolored portions: m in which the color of a predominates, modified by the color of c; n in which the color of c predominates, modified by the color of a; and p in which the pure color of 0 appears since a is imperceptible. It may be noted that in this modification, whether I) is eliminated or I) and 0 are the same, portions 0 and p would become equivalent.

The claims are not intended to exclude from their scopes fabrics including more yarns than those specifically enumerated. The fabric disclosed may, for example, have a very thin white or gray yarn incorporated therein, such yarn being brought to the surface at certain portions in plating relationship to the other yarns so as to veil or dim the designs produced by the other yarns while at other portions it may be carried to the back or floated so as to permit the full color of the other yarns to appear on the face of the fabric.

.It will also be clear that where the claims specify wales of stitched loops having certain characteristics, it is not intended to imply that the character of stitched loops ascribed to such wales shall extend throughout the length of the fabric, since the wales having the character of loops specified may be of such variable length as may be required to form any desired design as well as continuous stripes.

The process described herein is claimed in my copending application Ser. No. 368,829, filed June 6, 1929.

What I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

1. A single, fiat, plain knitted fabric including at least two threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which both threads are knit into loops with one of said threads overlying the second of said threads, another portion in which the first thread is knit into loops and overlies the second thread which floats behind such loops, and still another portion in which the second thread overlies the first thread.

2. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric ineluding at least two threads extending con tinuously along successive courses of the fab-. ric, said fabric having a portion in which both threads are knit into loops with one of said threads overlying the second of said threads, another portion in which the first thread is knit into loops and overlies the second thread which floats behind such loops, and still another portion in which both threads are knit into loops with the second thread overlying the first thread.

3. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads and the second thread overlies the third thread, another portion in which the second thread overlies the third and first threads and the third thread overlies the first thread, and still another portion in which the third thread overlies the second and first threads and the second thread overlies the first thread.

4:. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads and the second thread overlies the third, and another portion in which the second thread overlies the first and third threads and the first thread overlies the third thread.

5. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads and the second thread overlies the third, and another portion in which the second thread overlies the third and first threads and the third thread overlies the first thread.

6. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuwhich the third thread overlies the second and first threads and the second thread overlies the first thread.

. 8. A single, flat,'plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuou's ly along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portioninwhich the said three threads are arranged in one predetermined order from front to rear, and another portionin which the said three threads are arranged in a different predetermined order from front to rear.

9. A'single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at. least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which the said three threads are arranged in one predetermined manner, another portion in which the said three threads are arranged in a different predetermined manner, and a third portion in which the said three threads are arranged in still another predetermined manner.

10. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric and comprising normally plated wales of stitched loops in which one thread appears on the face, another on the back, and another in the middle, of the fabric, and other plated Wales of stitched loops in which the three threads appear in a different order.

11. A single,.flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric and comprising normally plated wales of stitched loops in which one threads appears on the face. another on the back, and another in the middle, of the fabric, other wales of stitched loops in which the second named thread appears on the face of the fabric. and still other wales of stitched loops in which the third named thread appears on the face of the fabric.

12. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric composed of three threads and comprising stitched loops, in some of which all three threads are in plating relation with the threads arranged in a certain order, in others of which all three threads are in plating relation with the threads arranged in a different order, in others of which two threads are in normal plating relation while the remaining thread floats, and 111 others of which two threads are in reverse platlng relation r while the remaining thread floats.

13. A single, fiat, plain knitted fabric composed of three threads, namely, a'platin thread, a backing thread and a middle threa and comprising stitched loops in whicha'll three threads are in plated relationship and in some of which the plating thread appears on the face and the backing thread on the back and inothers of which the positions of said two threads are different, other stitched loops composed of the middle thread and the backing thread in plating relationship in which the middle thread appears on the face over the backing thread and the plating thread floats, and other stitched loops composed of the middle thread and the backing thread in plated relationship in which the backing thread appears on the face over the middle thread and the plating thread. floats.

14. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least two threads, said fabric having a portion in which both threads are knit into loops with one of said'threads overlying the second of said threads, another portion in which only the first of said threads is knit into loops, and still another portion in which the second thread appears on the face of the fabric. f

15. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least two threads, said fabric having a portion in which both threads are knit into loops with one of said threads overlying the second of said threads, another portion in which only the first of said threads is knit into loops, and still another portion in which both threads are knit into loops with the second thread overlying the ti! st thread.

16. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads, said fabric having a portion in which, one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads and the second thread overlies the third thread, another portion in which the second thread-overlies the third and first threads and the third thread overlies the first thread, and

still another portion in which the third thread overlies the first and second threads and the first thread overlies the second thread.

17. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads, said fabric having a portion in which one of said threads overlies thdsecond and third of said threads ,I

and the second thread overlies the third. and

another portion in which the first thread overing a portion in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads and the second thread overlies the third thread. another portion in which the first thread overlies the third and second threads and the third thread overlies the second thread, and still another portion in which the second thread overlies the first and third threads and the first thread overlies the third thread.

20. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least two threads, said fabric having a portion in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads and the second thread overlies the third thread, another portion in which the first thread overlies the third and second thread, and the third 'thread overlies the second thread, and still another portion in which the second thread overlies the third and first threads and the third thread overlies the first thread.

21. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric in-' cluding at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads, and the second thread overlies the third, and another portion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which the third thread overlies the first and second threads, and the first thread overlies the second.

22. A single, flat, plain knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads, and the second thread overlies the third, another port-ion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which the third thread overlies the first and second threads, and the first thread overlies the second, and a third portion in which the second and third threads are knit into loops with the second thread overl ing the third, and in which the first thread oats.

23. A single, flat, plain'knitted fabric including at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads, and the second thread overlies the third, another portion in which all three threads are knitinto loops in which the third thread overlies the first and second threads, and the first thread overlies the second, and a third portion in which the second and third threads are knit into loops with the third thread overlying the second, and in which the first thread floats. 24. A single, fiat, plain knitted fabric ineluding at least three threads extending continuously along successive courses of the fabric, said fabric having a portion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which one of said threads overlies the second and third of said threads, and the s cond thread overlies the third, another portion in which all three threads are knit into loops in which the third thread overlies the first and second threads, and the first thread overlies the second, a third portion in which the second and third threads are knit into loops with the second thread overlying the third, and in which the first thread floats, and a fourth portion in which the second and third threads are knit into loops with the third thread overlying the second, and in which the first thread floats.

In testimony of which invention, I have hereur to set my hand at Bethlehem, Pa., on this third day of June, 1929.

WILLIAM J. SCHUBERT 

